Wainwright Walks: Coast To Coast

Julia Bradbury begins at St Bees Head on the coast of Cumbria, and has to deal with appalling weather conditions as she tackles her first Lakeland valley

Julia Bradbury follows in the footsteps of legendary guidebook writer Alfred Wainwright by walking across the whole of northern England from the west to the east coast . This was Wainwright's last great venture and has become his greatest legacy - a beautifully simple proposition, linking three national parks that lie between the Irish and the North Sea. 36 years after its creation, Julia is off, through sunshine, wind and rain to cross the changing landscape, understand the history and meet the people that make up almost 200 miles of northern England. Over three mountain ranges and across three valleys, the second stage of Julia's journey is a grand traverse of Wainwright's much-loved Lake District. Having shrugged off the rain, Julia ends with the epic 17-mile final day in the Lakes, including the length of Haweswater and the highest peak on the entire walk.

Julia sets off across the Eden Valley, a sparse land today but full of signs of ancient and uncertain human habitation. Kirkby Stephen is the one bustling modern outpost on this section, the launchpad for Julia's climb up and over the Pennines. The spine of England is a landmark on the walk, but during the wettest autumn in memory it is a major, boggy challenge.

The fourth stage of Julia's journey is entirely devoted to one great valley, Swaledale in Yorkshire. Wainwright studied this 22-mile section in utmost detail, presenting a varied route of valley bottom and windswept moor top. The villages, landscape and the history are a delight, just as Wainwright predicted, with Julia learning much about the lost mining industry that was once the lifeblood of Swaledale.

The historic town of Richmond is the starting point for the longest section of Julia's adventure. The country-loving Wainwright unusually singled out this town as one of his highlights, insisting that followers take time to peruse its castle and medieval streets.

Starting at the highest and most remote overnight spot on the whole walk, Julia sets out on the final stage. Robin Hood's Bay is the goal, but first she must complete the North York Moors and walk through Eskdale, before getting a magical first glimpse of the North Sea. The tranquil woods of Littlebeck and the clifftop finale provide ample opportunity to reflect on a great adventure and the enduring legacy of the uniquely passionate Wainwright.